Ston Walls

The Ston walls were the second great fortification project of the Ragusan Republic - not for defence of the capital but to protect the salt pans on which the whole state's wealth was based. Built from 1358 onwards, they climb the ridge between Ston on the south side of the Pelješac peninsula and Mali Ston on the north, sealing off the isthmus with 5.5 kilometres of stone, 40 towers and 5 fortresses. It is the longest complete defensive wall in Europe, sometimes called - with only a little exaggeration - the European Great Wall of China.

The walk goes up and over. From Ston you climb a punishing set of steps to the ridge, then follow the wall along the crest with the whole Pelješac peninsula on one side and the shimmer of the salt pans below. The full circuit down to Mali Ston and back is 5 kilometres and takes two to three hours; most visitors do just the Ston-to-viewpoint section (about an hour return) and skip the descent. The little town of Ston at the bottom is worth an hour on its own - stone streets, a cathedral, and restaurants serving the freshest oysters in Croatia straight from the Mali Ston bay.

It is 55 km from Dubrovnik by road (about 1 hour 15 minutes by bus or car). Come in April, May, September or October - summer sun on the exposed white stone is brutal. Combine it with a proper lunch of Mali Ston oysters (€1 each, straight from the boat) and a wine tasting at one of the Pelješac dingač wineries on the way back. This is the Croatia the owner of this site loves most - beyond the postcard, worth the day trip.

Hours & entry

Not free

Apr-Sep 8:00-18:30 · Oct-Mar 9:00-15:00 · Best walked in spring or autumn

What to see

• The salt pans of Ston — Below the southern walls - still worked by hand since 1333
• Fort Bartolomija — Highest point of the walls
• Oyster beds of Mali Ston bay — North side, visible from the wall crest

Tips from the ground

• Do the walk uphill from Ston, downhill to Mali Ston, and have oysters at the bottom.
• Bring 1.5 litres of water per person and a hat - no shade on the ridge.
• Combine with a Pelješac winery on the way back to Dubrovnik - Dingač reds are the region's calling card.