Proto Fish Restaurant

Proto has been running since 1886, when it opened as a small oyster and wine bar in a stone-vaulted cellar off Široka Street. Four generations later it is still a family-run fish restaurant, though the small original room has been supplemented by a rooftop terrace above the Old Town rooftops. The Duke of Windsor, King Edward VIII, dined here in the 1930s with Wallis Simpson; the guest book runs from him through most of the 20th century's celebrities. It survived shells landing in the street outside during the 1991 siege and reopened within weeks.

The menu is straightforward Dalmatian seafood done properly - a whole grilled fish of the day on the ice display, buzara-style shellfish (mussels or scampi cooked in white wine, garlic and breadcrumbs), Ston oysters when in season, and a fresh octopus salad that is a masterclass in restraint. Prices are lower than Nautika - mains €25-45, two courses with wine around €80-100 a head. The wine list runs heavily Croatian, including hard-to-find whites from Korčula and Pelješac.

Book a rooftop table on a warm evening - it is one of the few open-air options with a view of the Old Town roofs. Downstairs is atmospheric but hot in July. Come for a long lunch and skip dinner; the two menus are identical but lunch tables are easier to get. Combine with the pharmacy at the Franciscan Monastery (three minutes away) and a walk down Stradun afterwards.

Hours & entry

Not free

Daily 11:00-23:00 · Closed 20 December - 20 January · Booking recommended

What to see

• The rooftop terrace — Top floor - request when booking
• The fresh fish display — Entrance level - choose your own catch
• Ston oysters (October-March) — Starter menu - only in season

Tips from the ground

• Book the rooftop, not the cellar, in warm weather.
• Oysters are best October to March, straight from Mali Ston.
• Lunch has the same menu at lower prices and better availability.