Mljet National Park

Mljet is the long, densely forested island 40 kilometres northwest of Dubrovnik, most of it Aleppo pine and holm oak, and the western third of it is a national park protected since 1960. At its heart are Veliko and Malo Jezero, two connected saltwater lakes joined to the sea by a narrow channel that reverses direction with the tides. On an islet in the larger lake stands a 12th-century Benedictine monastery, now a small museum and restaurant, reached by park-run shuttle boat. The whole park is car-free and criss-crossed by walking and cycling trails.

A day here follows an obvious rhythm: boat in to Polače or Pomena, buy your park ticket, hire a bike (€10 for the day) or walk, do a circuit of the smaller lake (5 km, one hour), cross to the monastery islet by shuttle (included in ticket), have lunch at the monastery restaurant, and swim from any of dozens of small landing places. Water is warmer than the open sea because the lakes are enclosed. The park is quiet by Croatian standards - even in August you find yourself alone on stretches of trail.

This is a full-day trip and needs planning. The Nona Ana catamaran leaves Gruž port around 9:00 in summer, arrives Polače around 10:30, returns from Polače around 17:00 - giving you six good hours in the park. The €25 park fee includes the shuttle to the monastery. Bring lunch, swim gear, cash for the bikes, and mosquito repellent for the shaded trails. The site's owner would send anyone with a spare day to Mljet before any other excursion - it is the biggest 'beyond the postcard' moment you can have from Dubrovnik.

Hours & entry

Not free

Park open daily, Apr-Oct 8:00-19:00 · Reduced winter hours · Ferries seasonal - check schedules

What to see

• St. Mary's Monastery islet — Middle of Veliko Jezero, shuttle boat included
• The channel between lakes and sea — Northeast corner of the lakes, tidal current
• Cycle circuit of Malo Jezero — Trail begins near Polače

Tips from the ground

• Take the earliest ferry to maximise your park time.
• Rent bikes in Polače, not Pomena - shorter walk to the lake.
• Bring lunch - the monastery restaurant is fine but slow when catamarans arrive.