Gundulić Square Market

Gundulić Square, one block south of Stradun and dominated by the statue of the poet Ivan Gundulić, has been the Old Town's produce market for as long as anyone remembers. Every morning except Sunday the stalls appear at dawn - little tables draped in cloths, arranged around the statue and along the surrounding stone streets. By seven the fruit sellers are unloading vans; by nine the crowd is thick with locals shopping and tourists photographing; by one it is all packed up again and the square empties into the surrounding cafes.

What you find depends on the season. In late spring: strawberries the size of thumbnails, wild asparagus, and enormous bunches of purple lavender still on the stem. Summer: tomatoes, aubergines, figs picked yesterday, and jars of the almond-and-walnut cakes called kotonjata and mantala. Autumn: pomegranates, quince, chestnuts. Year-round: bottles of orahovica (green walnut spirit), travarica (herbal spirit), homemade olive oil, dried figs, candied almonds, and small bunches of dried herbs for cooking. Prices are marked, negotiation is limited, but a warm smile gets you a taste.

Come between 8:30 and 10:00 for the best selection with the fewest crowds. Bring cash (small notes; €5 and €10). Skip Sunday - the market is closed and the square becomes just another café terrace. Combine with a coffee at Gradska Kavana on the other side of the block, and a peek into the cathedral three doors away. This is the honest Dubrovnik - the one the poet Gundulić still watches over from his pedestal.

Hours & entry

Always free to enter

Mon-Sat 7:00-13:00 · Closed Sunday · Busiest 9:00-11:00

What to see

• Candied almond and orange stalls — South side of the square
• Lavender bunches in spring/summer — Stalls closest to the statue
• Homemade orahovica spirits — Corner stalls near the church of St. Ignatius

Tips from the ground

• Bring cash in small denominations - most stalls do not take cards.
• Ask for a taste of the rakija before buying - locals do it and no offense is taken.
• The lavender oil at €5 a small bottle is a genuine local product and travels well.