Fort Lovrijenac

Fort Lovrijenac stands on its own island of rock west of the Old Town, staring at the walls across the little Pile cove. The story goes that in 1038 the Venetians tried to build a fort here to control the city; the Ragusans got wind of it, threw up their own fort in three months, and Venice was politely told the site was taken. Whether or not that is embroidered, the fortress that stands today is largely 16th century, with three triangular defensive layers and walls up to 12 metres thick facing the mainland but paper-thin toward the city - so the citizens could smash it if the garrison ever turned traitor.

You cross a small stone bridge, climb a steep flight of steps carved into the rock, and enter through a low gate above which the famous inscription is chiseled: NON BENE PRO TOTO LIBERTAS VENDITUR AURO. Inside there is a small chapel, a series of chambers stacked over three levels, and cannons still pointing seaward. The top terrace is the reward - a wide open platform with the whole of the Old Town, walls and all, laid out across the water. In summer it becomes the stage for Hamlet during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, performed with the Adriatic as backdrop.

Combine it with the city walls - the joint ticket makes it effectively free, and most visitors do the walls first and Lovrijenac after. It is a 6-minute walk down from Pile Gate, through the cove and up the rock. Half an hour is enough inside, unless you sit on the top terrace with a coffee from the little cafe below. Avoid the noon slot; the rock reflects heat and there is almost no shade. Late afternoon light on the walls opposite is the shot everyone wants.

Hours & entry

Not free

Apr-Oct 8:00-18:30 · Nov-Mar 9:00-15:00 · Closed some winter afternoons in bad weather

What to see

• The 'freedom' inscription above the door — Main entrance gate on the mainland side
• Top artillery terrace with view of the Old Town — Upper open platform reached by inner staircase
• Small chapel of St. Lawrence — First courtyard immediately after the entrance

Tips from the ground

• Your city walls ticket includes Lovrijenac within three days - do not pay separately.
• Come 45 minutes before sunset for the golden light on the Old Town opposite.
• The steps up are steep and uneven - sensible shoes only, not flip-flops.