Fort Imperial (Mount Srđ)

Fort Imperial was built by the French between 1806 and 1812 on the summit of Mount Srđ, the bare limestone ridge that hangs directly over the Old Town. Napoleon needed a garrison to hold the coast, and this bastion - low, square, four-cornered, with a cistern in the middle - did the job for a century under successive rulers. Its most testing hour came much later, in the winter of 1991, when a handful of Croatian defenders held the fort against the Yugoslav People's Army through months of shelling. Their stand kept Dubrovnik itself from falling. The fort is still pockmarked with shell scars.

Today the interior houses the Museum of Croatian War of Independence - a small but exceptionally moving display of photographs, artefacts, uniforms and personal letters from the 1991-92 siege. Outside, a huge white cross stands on the ridge; from its base the whole coastline unrolls, from Cavtat in the south to the Elafiti islands in the north, with the Old Town directly below looking almost close enough to touch. On a clear day you see as far as the Italian mainland.

Get up here by cable car in three minutes (€27 return) or drive up the switchback road from Bosanka in twenty. There is also a hiking trail from Ploče - two hours up, hot, no shade, and best done at dawn or dusk. The restaurant Panorama at the top is not cheap but the terrace view is worth a drink. Sunset is the classic time; come an hour before and stay for the lights of the Old Town coming on below.

Hours & entry

Not free

Museum daily 8:00-22:00 (Jun-Sep) · Museum daily 9:00-16:00 (Oct-May) · Cable car runs 9:00-24:00 in high season

What to see

• Museum of Croatian War of Independence — Interior of the fort
• The great white cross viewpoint — Ridge just west of the fort
• Panorama restaurant terrace — Cable car top station, next to the fort

Tips from the ground

• Walk down (not up) the hiking trail - one hour, all downhill, saves the cable car return fare.
• Sunset is spectacular but crowded; the moment 40 minutes after sunset (city lights on, sky still blue) has fewer people.
• The museum ticket is only €7 - keep it separate from the cable car fare.