One week in Dubrovnik
Seven days lets you go beyond the postcard walls into 3 islands, a peninsula of oyster farms, and 2 quieter beach bases that most weekend visitors miss.
Fishing boats in Cavtat harbour near Dubrovnik
Days 1-2: the Old Town at its own pace
Start slow. Walk the walls on day 1 at opening (8am, $40), then spend the afternoon in the Rector's Palace and Franciscan monastery pharmacy — one of the oldest in Europe, operating since 1317. Day 2 is for the neighbourhoods: coffee on Gundulićeva square during the morning market, a swim off Šulić beach beneath Fort Lovrijenac, and dinner at Kopun on Poljana Ruđera Boškovića where the eponymous capon in orange sauce runs $28.
Days 3-4: base yourself in Lapad
Move your bags to Lapad or Babin Kuk. Family apartments here go for $110-160 a night versus $260 in the walls, and you swap alleys for a pine-shaded seafront path. Day 3: swim at Sunset Beach, lunch at Konoba Dubrava up the hill for grilled squid ($18). Day 4: catch the 9am ferry to Lokrum, then in the afternoon take bus 6 back and rent a kayak at Copacabana beach ($15/hour).
Days 5-6: Elaphiti islands and Ston
Day 5, ride the local Jadrolinija ferry (not the tourist boats) from Gruž port to Šipan, the largest and least-visited Elaphiti island. Round trip is $8. Rent bikes at the harbour, ride to Sudurad, swim, eat lunch at Kod Marka. Day 6, drive or take the 10am bus to Ston ($12 one way, 1 hour). Walk the 3.1 miles of stone walls (yes, longer than Dubrovnik's), then eat oysters at Bota Šare on Mali Ston harbour — $2 apiece, pulled from the bay in front of you.
Day 7: Cavtat, then home
Cavtat is a 45-minute boat ride from the Old Port ($20 return) or a $6 bus from the main terminal, and it's where locals go when Dubrovnik feels like a theme park. Whitewashed harbour, the Račić mausoleum by Meštrović on the hill, and a swim off the rocks below the pine trees. Lunch at Bugenvila, then to the airport (10 minutes by taxi, $25).
Frequently asked questions
What people ask before they set off on this one.
Not if you use it as a base for Ston, the Elaphiti islands, and Cavtat. Old Town alone would be too much for 7 days.
Only for days 5-6 if you want to reach Ston and the Pelješac peninsula independently. In town a car is a liability — parking is $40 a day.
Old Town for 2-3 nights of atmosphere, Lapad for the rest — beaches, quieter mornings, and half the price for a family room.
Yes, slot it on day 4 instead of Lokrum. Buses leave Gruž at 8am and return by 7pm; bring your passport for the Bosnia border.
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